
The only explosions you’ll hear in Lebanon this weekend, are the booms and bangs accompanying the latest purchase of human-sized bottles of champagne at uber-club Crystal. The Lebanese capital has reclaimed its reputation as party capital of the Middle East since the end of the Civil War. Simultaneously, a couple of thousand miles away, revellers will be flocking to London’s West End nightclubs to dance away their mortgages.
Each city has its very unique clubbing dynamic. Beirut, for example, is a city where couples go out clubbing. Paris is the same. People in London will look at you like you’re some freak of nature if you go clubbing with a significant other. “What’s the point of it”, they’ll say.
On any day, Beirut is a city awash in the opulence of post-war excess. Conspicuous display of wealth is the norm. You don’t even have to be wealthy either. Actually, the less wealth you have the more you’re likely to want to prove you’re Lebanon’s answer to Onasis. In London, such decadent behaviour is frowned upon in society at large. But once you cross the velvet ropes and enter the one of its members clubs, of varying degrees of trashiness, the equation changes. Sparklers accompany champagne and so on.
The similarities don’t end there. The anthropological dynamic between attractive young women and wealthy old gentlemen is present everywhere. As my friend Lawrence says, “It's like watching the Discovery Channel but the experience is far more visceral”. However, certain differences remain. Spraying champagne is a big no-no in London. While this is happily done in St Tropez and Beirut, spraying the bubbly in London will get you kicked out of a club. As I witnessed last week in Pangaea, which is a place described by one reviewer as being on the “trashy side of exclusive”. That’s probably why I like it.
Crystal is Beirut’s answer of the Jermyn Street temple of glitz, glam and money: Tramp. Filled with beautiful women and men, the theme of this nightclub is champagne and the clients buy it by the magnum. Names are shouted out over the microphone, to acknowledge every hole burnt in every pocket. I’ve heard stories of people renting bottles, or getting store credit to purchase them. I think these people miss the point of clubbing. It’s about your friends, the music, feeling a vibe and sponging off the unique human energy these places contain. It’s not about one-upmanship.
It’s nothing surprising really. The Lebanese spend money they don’t have, to buy things they don’t need, to impress people they don’t like. Maybe it’s not a purely Lebanese characteristic. Maybe we are just the caricature-like extreme, and this is a more widespread ill.
Of course, no trawl of Beirut’s clubs is complete without a late visit to world famous crypt-like nightclub BO18. This is probably our equivalent of Fabric or Turnmills. It’s a debauched and decadent club, for the hardcore of Beirut’s clubbing fraternity the music is techno and tribal house. The roof is regularly opened up to reveal the stars. The fleeting glimpse of the dawning sunlight on the horizon is usually a pretty good indication that you should be heading home.
I don’t know if you noticed, but I feel a need to compare clubs. As if feeling that Tramp is similar to Crystal will mean a 3-hour trip to one will feel like I’ve crossed the Mediterranean magically to savour the delights of the city I miss.
I used to think Lebanon was an abhorrent example of superficiality gone crazy. Some sort of all-day, all-night orgy of amnesia designed to forget years of war and bloodshed. After three years back in London, however, I realize this place is just as vain and the people just as needy the redeeming solace of a plush club overflowing with beautiful people. Welcome to the globalization of sparklers and redemption.
(How ironic that I should be writing this an hour before I head off to the West End)